Once you leave Vientiane, heading north on Route 13 to Vang Vieng, you quickly begin climbing out of the Mekong river plain and into the mountains and high plateaus that make up over 2/3 of Laos. Moving further north, the limestone karst country of Vang Vieng - so spectacular in a delicate sort of way - gives way to big, solidly built mountain ranges, bisected by deep river gorges and thinly populated by Hmong (hill tribe) villages. The road up to Luang Prabang is (mostly) paved and (mostly) well-maintained, an admittedly difficult task given the terrain. Zig zagging through some of the most impressive country I've encountered on my trip, it reminded me of the first couple of weeks I spent motorbiking through northern Vietnam - and it should, I guess, seeing as how I'm back in roughly the same neighborhood. This stretch of Route 13 also has a well-earned reputation for banditry and roadside ambushes although the paving of the road and recent surrender of the last bands of Hmong anti-communist insurgents (originally organized nearly 40 years ago by the CIA, of course) has mellowed things out considerably. The last attack was in 2004 when two Swiss cyclists were murdered. Today you might see an AK-47 toting soldier or policeman riding shotgun on the local buses just to keep up appearances, but you're far more likely to fall prey to motion-sickness on the winding roads than a bunch of Hmong highway men
. After a relatively uneventful dramamine-laced trip, I arrived safely in Luang Prabang. I'd been here once before - almost two years ago with my brother, Jason - and was excited to be back again. Luang Prabang, I think, is my favorite city in all of Southeast Asia (slightly edging out Hanoi, and possibly Hue and neighboring Hoi An. Bangkok, of course, can't be compared to anything but Bangkok, so it doesn't figure into the rankings at all.) Situated at the confluence of the Mekong and Nam Khan rivers in a high mountain valley, Luang Prabang became the capital of the very first Laos kingdom in 1353. Today it is dotted with dozens of Buddhist temples in various states of disrepair, French-era villas and commercial buildings, sleepy residential streets, bustling markets, and (more than) adequate tourist facilities like cafes, guest houses, hotels, bakeries, blah, blah, blah, blah.
The old city center, occupying a spit of land at the base of Phu Si hill (an unfortunate name from a western-eared perspective....but always good for a chuckle when mentioned by a straight-faced Lao), was declared a UNESCO world heritage site in 1995. Tha
t, as you might expect, has been a mixed blessing depending upon your perspective. The positive press that comes along with UNESCO patronage has led to a huge tourist boom - Luang Prabang is, far and away, the most popular tourist destination in Laos. However, there now seems to be funding for historic preservation and a recognition that, at least for the downtown area, it is worth enforcing strict building codes and limiting the (often garishly tacky) runaway growth that you might otherwise find. Old, previously run down French-style buildings are being renovated and turned into slick boutique hotels and spas catering to throngs of well-heeled tourists (including a huge number of Thais). A massive night market - sans all motorized traffic - sets up on the main drag each evening with intentionally low lighting designed to put you in a silk shopping mood. Early morning drums signal the daily march of alm-collecting monks through the streets. Sunsets across the Mekong can be enjoyed at any one of the dozen river side al fresco cafes. Fraganpani lined walkways meander through residential neighborhoods of traditional Lao-style wood homes. Pleasant smelling incense wafts from the open windows of the Buddhist temples located on nea
rly every block. Get the picture?
t, as you might expect, has been a mixed blessing depending upon your perspective. The positive press that comes along with UNESCO patronage has led to a huge tourist boom - Luang Prabang is, far and away, the most popular tourist destination in Laos. However, there now seems to be funding for historic preservation and a recognition that, at least for the downtown area, it is worth enforcing strict building codes and limiting the (often garishly tacky) runaway growth that you might otherwise find. Old, previously run down French-style buildings are being renovated and turned into slick boutique hotels and spas catering to throngs of well-heeled tourists (including a huge number of Thais). A massive night market - sans all motorized traffic - sets up on the main drag each evening with intentionally low lighting designed to put you in a silk shopping mood. Early morning drums signal the daily march of alm-collecting monks through the streets. Sunsets across the Mekong can be enjoyed at any one of the dozen river side al fresco cafes. Fraganpani lined walkways meander through residential neighborhoods of traditional Lao-style wood homes. Pleasant smelling incense wafts from the open windows of the Buddhist temples located on nea
rly every block. Get the picture?Ok, ok, I'll be the VERY first to admit that equating quaint little Luang Prabang to the "real" Laos (whatever that may be) is a bit like calling Jackson Hole the "real" Wyoming - no matter what Harrison, Calista, or Emilie may think. Be that as it may, Luang Prabang is an amazing place to crash land for a few days before heading back out into the rough and tumble of the "real" Laos (once again, whatever that may be). I've had a chance to recuperate from the road a bit, fatten up on mango smoothies and fresh-baked pinapple bread, hang with the local university students, and, best of all, to stay at the friendliest little family-owned guesthouse of my whole trip (thank you, Mama and Hen). I'm already looking forward to another visit a couple years down the road.
Next up, a two-day river journey to the Thai border. Should be interesting.....
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